Method of manufacturing shoes



Nov. L w27.

E. A. HESS METHODv oF MANUFACTURING sHo'izsl Filed April 4, 1924 ATTO R N EY Patented Nov., il, i927.,

ara ons METHOD F MANUFACTURING SHOES.

Application filed April L1,

rlhis invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to a process of manufacturing shoes of the type which have cut-out designs in the uppers ofthe shoes, also ornamental stitching, for the purpose of adding to the artistic appearance of the shoe.

lfnthe present manner of manufacture of shoes of this type, the leather or material from which the upper is made has the design cut out therein' simultaneously with or immediately subsequent to the operation of cutting out the piece of leather or material of which the design carrying part of the upper is formed. and then the shoe upperl is fitted in the usual approved manner, which itting includes the operation of stitching the lining in the upper, and the lining of the upper corresponding to the opening of the cut- 2@ out design is cut out after the upper has left vthe itting room and in carrying out the above method of manufacturing shoes many undesirable features are experienced among which is the extreme ydiiiiculty which the stitching machine operators have in properly following .the outline of the cut-out in the upper so as t'o make a neat appearing design in that they have no distinct lines to follow and must gauge the stitching by ao proper spacing from edges of the cut-out openings. Also in the fitting and lasting of the shoe upper the leather or material of which the upper is made stretches very easily where it has the design cut out therein resulting in an irregular appearance of the design cut-outs. Another undesirable feature is the separate cutting out of the lining of the shoe corresponding withthe cut-out on the leather or material after the shoe is lasted. The cutting of which is extremely slow and diificult and thereforeexpensive.

In the method which forms the subject,

to provide a method of manufacturing shoes,`

1924. Serial No. 704,239.

which have -stitched or cut-out designs theneon, which will result in the completed shoe having the accurate undistorted design cut or stitched therein, and which will also materially reduce the cost of such decorating of the shoe, in that it will eliminate much of the labor employed in the old process.

Other objects of the invention will ap ear in the following detail description, an in the accompanying drawings wherein:

In the drawings, Figure l is a perspective view of a'shoe constructed in accordance with my invention.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a portion of the upper of said shoe, showing the design stamped thereon Figure 3 is a similar view of the upper in its entirety.

Figure 4 is a sect-ional view taken on line 4 4 of Figure l. A

vFigure -5 is a similar view of a slightly modiiied form.

Referring to the drawingsin detail- Dierent cut-out designs are shown on the shoes in diHerent figures of the drawings,

merely to illustrate the adaptability ofthe method to various types of cut-out desi ns.

ln carrying out the method embrace in the present invention, the leather or material is first cut from the desired patternto form the section of the upper which is to carry the cut-out or stitched design, and after this piece of leather or material has been properly cut, it is stamped with a particular stamp and ink, to show the design to be made on the upper such as indicated by the solid lines 3 in Figure 2 of the drawings, after which the shoe upper goes through the usual method of fitting, which method includes the lining of the upper. After the lining 2 is placed within and stitched about its edges to leather l of which the upper is formed, the design previously stamped on the leather l, is stitch-ed on a Ishoe sewing machine, the stitching being done directly on or about the stamped marks 3, as indicatedby the dotted lines in Figure 3 of the drawing. The stitching 4 not only adds to the appearance of the design, but it securely attaches the leather and the lining about the edges of the cut-outs, so that when the leather or material in the upper is cut out within the stitched design, there will be no ragged edges around the edges of the cut-out.

lit is to be understood that the new invention embodies the process of stamping on eov the leather or material, a design to bev designs onshoe uppers, whereas, the method embodied in the new invention embodies the stamping of the complete design on the leather by one or more impressions of a suitable stamp of any approved type, and a suitl able ink which is quick drying and will not smear.

After the shoe upper has been stitched on or about the design stamped thereon, the fitting of the upper is stitched as at 6 and completed or carried on, and the shoe is lasted, which is putting the upper over the last to give shape of shoe and sewing the sole to the upper. After the shoe is lasted the designs on the upper can be cut out at any time prior completing of the shoe within the stitching 4, as shown in Figure 1, of the drawings, and the new method embodies the cutting completely through both the leather` or material 1, and the lining 2, so when the cut-outs 5 are made there will be no ragged edges, but a clean uniform cutout.

In Figure 5 of the drawings, a section through a modified form of the invention is shown, in which the lining 2 is not cut or perforated with the design 5. However, the lining 2 is stitched about the design, as shown at 4', while only the material l is cut out or cut away within the stitchmg.

The operation of cutting out the cut-outs within or about the stitched design of the upper, can be done at any time after the design is stitched, but is more practically done after the shoe is lasted, and should be cut out with a machine which cuts out leather or material of upper and lining with one operation, which machine forms no part of the present application.

What I claim is:

l. The method of manufacturing shoes decorated by cut-out designs, consisting in first stamping the piece of material of which the shoe upper is to be made with an outline of the desired design, fitting the shoe upper, including lining the same and stitching through the shoe upper and lining along the stamped lines of the design, lasting the shoe and then cutting out the design through the material of the shoe after the shoe is lasted.

2. The method of manufacturing shoes decorated by cut-out designs, consisting ,in first stamping the iece of leather or material of which the s oe u per is to be made, with an outline of the deslred design, fitting the shoe upper, including lining the same and stitching through the shoe upper and lining along the stamped lines of the design, and then cutting out the design through the material and lining of the shoe.

3. The method of manufacturing shoes decorated by cut-out designs, consisting in first stamping the piece of material of which the shoe upper is to be made with an outline of the desired design, fitting the shoe upper including lining the same and stitching through the shoe upper and lining along the stamped lines of the design, and then cutting out the design through the material of the shoe upper, and through the shoe lining by asingle operation for each unit of the design.

4. That method of making an article of footwear having an upper provided with a cut-out, the upper comprising an outer member and a corresponding lining, which comprises as steps lasting the upper and attaching the sole, and otherwise completing the shoe, and thereafter in a single operation punching out the material of the upper, in-.. cluding the outer member and its lining, to provide the desired cut-out.

5. That method of making an article of footwear having a cut-out in its upper which comprises as steps forming that part of the upper which is to be provided with the cutout, marking the outline of the desired cutout upon the outer surface of said part, assembling said marked part with other parts to form the shoe upper, lasting, bottoming and finishing the shoe, and thereafter removing the material of said part within the limits 'defined by the marking.

6. That method of makin@ an article of footwear having a cut-out in its upper which comprises as steps marking the outline of the desired cut-out upon the proper part of the upper before the latter is assembled with other parts, forming a row of stitches along the margin of the proposed cut-out as indicated by said marking, ksubstantially completing the shoe, and thereafter punching out the material of said upper part within the outline definedby said stitches.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

EDWIN A. Huss. 

